Saturday, April 18, 2015

Colby Makes A Comeback with The Robin

In 2009, Jon Topp of Chesterfield, Missouri, sent me an email and attached a spreadsheet listing dozens of Colby cheeses he had ordered from Midwestern cheesemakers during the past several years, in a quest to find the Colby of his youth. Growing up in the 1960s in central Iowa near a small country store that carried the "absolute best Colby cheese," Jon remembered eating Colby in longhorns, wrapped in cloth and wax.

He said he could remember the taste like it was yesterday: mild, deliciously nutty, firm and laced with small holes. Most importantly, like much of the Colby made today, it was NOT mild cheddar. It was dry, not rubbery, gooey or wet and had the perfect salt to moisture ratio.

In short, it was perfect. And Jon Topp could no longer find it. Since then, I, too have been on a quest to find true, original Colbys (and found them at Hook's Cheese and Widmer's Cheese Cellars). This week, fellow cheese peeps, I found another one.

Introducing Deer Creek The Robin, named for Wisconsin's state bird, this Colby is a partnership between Henning's Cheese in Kiel and Chris Gentine of The Artisan Cheese Exchange in Sheboygan. Turns out Chris, too, has been on a quest to find true Colby, so he worked with the Colby masters at Henning's to create a young cheese with a firm, open and curdy body. It is not made in longhorns (good luck finding many cheesemakers who want to hand-punch curd into a longhorn form anymore), but it is made in12-pound tall wheels, bandaged with linen and dipped in wax.

The result could very well be the end of Jon Topp's journey: a true Colby of years gone by, with a fresh, dairy flavor, buttery, yet curdy texture with nutty notes and nice salty finish.

If you're wondering why this is such a big deal (I know what you're thinking - I can buy Colby in any supermarket store in America), let me give you a brief background on this iconic cheese. Colby was invented in Wisconsin by Joseph F. Steinwand in 1885. He named it for the township in which his father, Ambrose Steinwand, Sr., had built northern Clark County's first cheese factory three years before.



The Code of Federal Regulations - as specified in Sec. 133.118, describes the requirements for making Colby cheese. The key difference between cheddar and traditional Colby is that during the make process, the curd mass is cut, stirred, and heated with continued stirring, to separate the whey and curd. Then, part of the whey is drained off, and the curd is cooled by adding water, with continued stirring, which is different from cheddar (no added water/rinse with cheddar). The Colby curd is then completely drained, salted, stirred, further drained, and pressed into forms, instead of being allowed to knit together like Cheddar.

Back in 2010, after Jon Tropp initially emailed me, I contacted cheese industry guru John Jaeggi at the Center for Dairy Research in Madison, and he told me this traditional make method allowed Colby a curdy texture with mechanical openings. The flavor was slightly sweet with a slight salty note. Best of all, John said, the cheese had a dairy, milky note.

All this was grand until 1998, when the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture changed the state standard of identity for Colby cheese -- here is a link to the original document with the original wording - you'll have to scroll down to 81.50(2) and note the the hand-written notation with the change in statute -- and amended ATCP 81.50(2) by adding this little gem of a sentence:

"Wisconsin certified premium grade AA colby and monterey (jack) cheese shall be reasonably firm. The cheese may have evenly distributed small mechanical openings or a closed body."

This annotation, especially the portion I've highlighted in red, led to significant changes in the make process of Colby by Wisconsin manufacturers. Because mechanical openings were no longer required of Colby, many processors today simply (and I'm going to get in trouble for saying this, but it is the truth) make a cheese that resembles mild cheddar but label it as Colby.

But it's not just the change in state statutes that doomed Colby in Wisconsin. Jaeggi notes technology improvements have also changed Colby. "I think cultures are faster. Older cultures were slower single strains, resulting in slower make times. These slower cultures tended to make for a sweeter cheese," Jaeggi says. Another change is the curd wash, he says. Many large manufacturers now do a curd rinse (no hold) after dropping the curd pH down to a 5.60. Old time Colby makers used to drain whey to the curd line while the curd was still sweet - at 6.00 pH or higher. Then after the whey was drained to the curd line, water was added to drop the curd temperature to a set target. After 15 minutes, the whey/water was drained off the curd and then the curd was salted. Most of the acid developed in the press. The reason this changed was larger plants understandably did not want to process all that water along with the whey.

Lastly, the hoop sizes and pressing of the cheeses is much different today than it was back in the day. Traditional Colby was made in the longhorn shape and pressed in 13 pound horns. They were then waxed for sale. Other plants made Colby in 40 pound blocks.

Which gets me back to Deer Creek The Robin. This Colby is a true anomaly - it is crafted in a 12-pound wheel, but has the taste, flavor and texture of longhorn Colby cheeses of years gone by. I got a chance to taste the cheese this week when Gentine shipped me a wheel at Metcalfe's Market-Hilldale in Madison. We cut open the wheel, and then stood in awe, as we smelled the old-time milkiness of true Colby and could literally count the openings in the curd like stars in the sky.

Deer Creek The Robin is just now making its debut in national markets, and I am excited that Metcalfe's Market-Hilldale is one of the first stores to carry it. We have it proudly displayed on our Deer Creek shelf, sandwiched between Deer Creek The Stag and Deer Creek The Fawn, two Grade AA Cheddars Gentine has also created with the help of Henning's Cheese.

So, Mr. Topp - wherever you may be - while you may never find the Colby you grew up with (Jaeggi says most traditional Colby was made by small cheesemakers, each factory had their own unique flavor profile, and sadly, most, if not all, of those factories are now closed) -- you may want to try Deer Creek The Robin. It may very well be a close second to the the Colby of your childhood.


8 comments:

The House Mouse said...

I love this article (and admit a bit of byass by the name of the cheese). One of my first cheese-loves was Colby as well. Would love to get my mouse-paws on a wheel of Robin. Stay Cheesy!
The House Mouse!

janice davis said...

Can you please tell me if there are any regulations in the U.S. regarding length of aging for specific cheeses? I have been able to find the aging requirements for raw milk cheeses but not for cheese made from pasteurized milk.

vince said...

Colby was my first loved cheese!

Christopher said...

I'm curious why Dupont Cheese's Colby came up short and didn't make the short list of "true" Colbys. When it's young it's just like the best Colbys I remember from 30 or 40 years ago...

Christopher said...

Okay, after trying Deer Creek's Colby (and eating the whole half pound chunk in one sitting) I think it has a richer, more complex flavor than the Dupont I usually buy. I'll still pick up Dupont's Colby if I'm at the store where I buy it but it's nice having more choices. I'll definitely buy Deer Creek too.

And you're right about the rectangular 8 oz/16 oz chunks. They don't really taste like Colby should. I've seen it being cut and packaged, and like most cheese at its price point it's manufactured in 640 lb blocks.

Jeanne Carpenter said...

Thanks, Christopher, for your thoughts! I will have to seek out the Dupont Colby - I'm not familiar with that one.

Mystery MariS said...

I just happened on this on the demo stand at Sendkik's Market in Germantown, WI and was thrilled to find it was exactly like I remember Colby...not cheddary, a little nutty, a very mild flavor. Colby does live so get some of this brand, Deer Creek The Robin, if you want a true blast from the past and a special treat for your palate. BTW, I am a regular buyer of Widmer's cheeses, but their Colby is nowhere near as true to my memories as this one.
Mari

Mystery MariS said...

Try looking at Sendik's. I found some at their Germantown, WI store, and it's exactly how I remember Colby from the past. I do buy regularly from Widmer's...especially their mild brick and curds...but their Colby can't hold a candle to this one. Give it a try. I'm a believer and will be a loyal, returning customer.