Monday, January 02, 2017

2017: The Year of the Egg Yolk and American Artisan Cheese

It's starting: national food trend experts have labeled 2017 as "the year of the egg yolk." African flavors, Spanish flavors and a Middle Eastern spice mix called baharat are all supposed to be hot, while almost everyone is excited about sorghum grain bowls for breakfast and foods grilled on a plancha.

I don't even know what the hell a plancha is*.

What I can tell you is that 2017, similar to the last 10 years, will be the year of American artisan cheese. That's because American cheesemakers continue to up their game in quality and innovation. And in Wisconsin, we've got a whole new generation of cheesemakers coming up who are pushing block cheddar and shredded mozzarella to the side and stocking specialty cheese counters with American Originals such as Le Rouge, Vat 17 and Wischago.

So do what you want with egg yolks this year, but seek these cheeses out, too:

1. Le Rouge -- this alpine-style cheese from Red Barn Family Farms is made by Master Cheesemaker Jon Metzig. It's reminiscent of a table Alp cheese you might eat at in a farmer's kitchen in Switzerland, and is made from the milk of six Wisconsin dairy farmers who all follow the Red Barn Rules.

2. Vat 17 -- this sweet cheddar-style cheese from Deer Creek has been on the market for two or three years, but never gets the credit it deserves. The story goes that Deer Creek owner Chris Gentine worked with Master Cheesemaker Kerry Henning for years to develop an exact flavor profile of a cheese he was seeking, and the 17th vat of cheese they made finally fit the bill. Creamy yet crumbly, and chock full of calcium-lactate crystals, this cheese puts your average block cheddar to shame.





3. Wischago -- Until about six months ago, Cheesemaker Brenda Jensen of Hidden Springs Creamery marketed this cheese as Manchego, but then a rather threatening letter from the Spanish Manchego Consortium persuaded her to change the name to Wischago. No matter. This aged sheep milk's cheese is better than any imported Spanish Manchego you'll find in an American grocery store.




*I googled plancha and according to Steven Raichlen's Barbecue! Bible, a plancha is "a sort of griddle—a thick, flat slab of cast iron you place on your grill for searing small or delicate foods." You can get a plancha insert for your gas grill for about $35, or you can purchase a Vulcan V1P18-NAT V Series Natural Gas 18" Modular Heavy-Duty Plancha Range, 17,500 BTU for $3,538.75 here. I'm likely to do neither.

4 comments:

McVal said...

Hi - I got a cheese making kit for Christmas and am going to try my first batch of homemade mozzarella tonight. Can't wait! I doubt I'll get good enough tho to make a "cheese wheel" wedding cake for my daughter by June... Can you recommend a place where I can find complete wheels of cheese that don't cost $1000?

Jeanne Carpenter said...

Hi McVal - I work for a retail grocery store chain, Metcalfe's Market, that has stores in Madison and Milwaukee and we can usually put together a very nice wedding cake tower of cheese wheels for about $500. You could get a wheel of Pleasant Ridge Reserve, Dunbarton, Alemar Bent River and a Little Lucy Brie for about that amount.

McVal said...

Thanks Jeanne! I'll check that place out. I live in Iowa tho. Well, the wedding is in Minnesota... with plenty of people coming from the Madison area... but wondering if they ship the cheese at all and we could do the assembly?

Kathy said...

McVal-I'm the cheese specialist at Hy-Vee New Hope MN. We can help you with cheese wheels. Stop in for pricing and we can deliver also..Kathy